Brown-Bagging It: Recreating an 18th Century Leather Portmanteau
The finished case ready to "port" a "manteau" |
Adventures in Colonial Luggage!
A Portmanteau (from the French “porter” meaning “to carry” and “manteau” meaning “cloak” or “gown”) is a valise or suitcase made from heavy leather that was used to carry a cloak or other necessities and is shaped to be secured behind the saddle of a horse. The cloak or other clothing would be rolled, not folded, into the case. It was also used by post riders to transport mail or newspapers. It could be round- or flat-bottomed with buckles and straps to secure the lid, and often had a handle on the side or top, and could include a shoulder strap.In some examples, portmanteaus (or should it be "portmanteaux"?) were covered with tarpaulin cloth, India rubber or oilcloth to increase the waterproofing and protect the contents. These were so common and so durably made that many extant examples still exist in a variety of sizes for men, women, and even children, in museums such as the Museum of the American Revolution and Fort Ticonderoga.
Close-up of top carry handle and strap attachment |
I’ve made a lot of leather goods over the years but this was my first attempt to make something like this. Even though many historic and contemporary pictures exist, very few patterns are available. I had to do a bit of interpreting and had to learn a few new things like diagonal edge sewing, choosing a method of securing the leather straps, and what buckle shield shape to use.
This version is approximately 22 x 9 x 8
inches, made from heavy-weight cowhide that was dyed with Fiebings Medium Brown
dye, highlighted with decorative edge-grooving, and then waxed. The top handle
is leather-covered rope, which has a nice feel to it, and it protects the
leather from crimping.
"A Dinner Conversation" by Marcellus Laroon (1735) seems
to imply somebody brought an overnight bag...just in case.
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I am still debating whether or not to add an internal pocket or two for holding small items in a separate area, like a business card slot or a divider. I have not been able to find this in an extant example so I am hesitant to do that until I can find evidence that it was done.
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All watermarked photos and copy are copyright Jerry A. Hedrick 2017-2018. While pretending to be a pirate is fun, actual piracy is a crime. Please respect my intellectual property.
All watermarked photos and copy are copyright Jerry A. Hedrick 2017-2018. While pretending to be a pirate is fun, actual piracy is a crime. Please respect my intellectual property.