Brown-Bagging It: Recreating an 18th Century Leather Portmanteau

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The finished case ready to "port" a "manteau"

Adventures in Colonial Luggage!

A Portmanteau (from the French “porter” meaning “to carry” and “manteau” meaning “cloak” or “gown”) is a valise or suitcase made from heavy leather that was used to carry a cloak or other necessities and is shaped to be secured behind the saddle of a horse. The cloak or other clothing would be rolled, not folded, into the case. It was also used by post riders to transport mail or newspapers. It could be round- or flat-bottomed with buckles and straps to secure the lid, and often had a handle on the side or top, and could include a shoulder strap. 


 In some examples, portmanteaus (or should it be "portmanteaux"?) were covered with tarpaulin cloth, India rubber or oilcloth to increase the waterproofing and protect the contents. These were so common and so durably made that many extant examples still exist in a variety of sizes for men, women, and even children, in museums such as the Museum of the American Revolution and Fort Ticonderoga.
Close-up of top carry handle and strap attachment

 I’ve made a lot of leather goods over the years but this was my first attempt to make something like this. Even though many historic and contemporary pictures exist, very few patterns are available.  I had to do a bit of interpreting and had to learn a few new things like diagonal edge sewing, choosing a method of securing the leather straps, and what buckle shield shape to use.  

This version is approximately 22 x 9 x 8 inches, made from heavy-weight cowhide that was dyed with Fiebings Medium Brown dye, highlighted with decorative edge-grooving, and then waxed. The top handle is leather-covered rope, which has a nice feel to it, and it protects the leather from crimping.
Decorative buckle shields




"A Dinner Conversation" by Marcellus Laroon (1735) seems
 to imply somebody brought an overnight bag...just in case.
The sides are wood encased in leather, which prevents the case from being crushed. It is 100% hand sewn, and because it was a new project with a few techniques new to me, it took me about 30 hours to complete.

 I am still debating whether or not to add an internal pocket or two for holding small items in a separate area, like a business card slot or a divider. I have not been able to find this in an extant example so I am hesitant to do that until I can find evidence that it was done. 

The word historian in me loves the notion that the word "portmanteau" is itself a portmanteau, which is a word created by combining two other words. It  was first used in this sense by Lewis Carroll in the book “Through the Looking-Glass” (1871), in which Humpty Dumpty explains to Alice the origin of the unusual words in "Jabberwocky," where slithy means "slimy and lithe" and mimsy is "miserable and flimsy.” Brunch, motorcade, transistor, and motel are other examples of portmanteau words.

Portmanteu is packed and ready for a staycation! See what I did there?
Chiropractor license board  medicine chiropractic 

 All watermarked photos and copy are copyright Jerry A. Hedrick 2017-2018. While pretending to be a pirate is fun, actual piracy is a crime. Please respect my intellectual property.


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